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THE PAPER / EATS

RESTAURANT REVIEWS

Doug's Soul Food Cafe serves heavenly country-fried Southern comfort

When my mother was a little girl, her Alabama-bred mother used to cook up "a mess o' greens" on tough days. The recipe consisted of a slab of bacon, collard greens and turnip greens, all stewed up into a mass of nutritious and heavy gruel. >More Monroe Street Bistro is no copycat
Formidable!

It's a little daring -- you might even say brash -- to open up a little bistro just down the street from a very similar restaurant, and name your endeavor the Monroe Street Bistro. After all, Brasserie V was there first. The temerity! But sit down at one of Monroe Street Bistro's little tables, and you'll find hardly a shadow of arrogance. >More

LOCAL FLAVOR

Part of the solution
Organic holds on amid economic meltdown

Twice a month at Madison's Whole Foods store, marketing director Amanda Jahnke Bauer leads a tour of the grocery, pointing out ways shoppers can economize. Buy from the bulk aisles, purchase store-brand items, use coupons, she advises. >More Beets that can't be beat
Prizewinning latkes — with no potatoes

Deny it all you want, but it's official: Summer's over. Autumn is here. Say goodbye to tomatoes and basil; say hello to potatoes and cabbage. >More

TABLE TALK

La Brioche's David Yankovitch, co-owner

Remember Bakers' Rooms and Ovens of Brittany? Those vanished culinary institutions were the brainchildren of Joanna Guthrie, holistic foods practitioner and the mother of Madison's morning bun tradition. Yankovitch, an original member of Guthrie's flock, went on to own two previous incarnations of La Brioche. The second, in Midvale Plaza, was done in by development. In its brand-new, much more ambitious life, La Brioche brings back all the flavor and ambience of that original Bakers' Rooms and then some. >More Plaka Taverna's Telly Fatsis, owner

A legendary old diner is reincarnated in August as Mad City boho chic — a gentle model of urban renewal that calls for celebration. Do it with dolmades, and a shot of ouzo. >More

BEER

The Malt House keeps the focus on the brews

The recently opened Malt House at the corner of East Washington Avenue and Milwaukee Street is receiving high praise from those seeking the perfect pint. There are two big reasons: It serves an ever-changing beer list with more than 170 bottle and tap selections. And those beers are served over what may be the oldest wooden bar in the city. >More

DINING

Dinner and a movie
We pair terrific takeout with flick picks

No one likes a chewer at the movies. It boggles the mind that theaters sell nachos. Of all the possible snack foods, why choose one of the loudest? >More Tavern time
Small burger-and-fry grills shall not perish from the earth

To a certain segment of the population, there's nothing more alluring than a vintage sign for Pabst Blue Ribbon hanging outside a converted farmhouse or an old hotel. The house-turned-tavern is as old as the concept of the public house itself — Madison's first pioneer residents, Rosaline and Eben Peck, were tavern- and innkeepers. >More

THE DAILY / EATS

Madison gets the Schlitz

Thirsty quaffers gathered at The Old Fashioned on Thursday afternoon to get a taste of the new classic version of Schlitz beer. Already released in Chicago and Milwaukee over the spring and summer, anticipation for the brew has been building around town over the last couple months as brand owner and master of retro beer marketing Pabst Brewing has launched a forceful promotional campaign. Now the taps are open. >More Good tastes from Taste of Asia in east Madison
Away from the buffet, the Hmong dishes are worth a special order

A short detour to the East Madison Shopping Center on East Washington Avenue brought me to Taste of Asia, a pan-Asian restaurant without any fusion pretensions. It serves a creditable lunch and dinner buffet as well as a menu that draws from Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai, Lao and Hmong cuisine. Since the owner/chefs, Peng Her and Mai Zong Vue, are Hmong, I steered toward the entrees marked as such on the menu. >More Beer Here -- Octoberfest from Central Waters

The 175th celebration of Oktoberfest in Munich is well under way. The annual 16-day event opened this year on September 20 and runs through October 5, this being the traditional closing date of the first Sunday of October. The festival began as a wedding party for Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese von Sachsen-Hildburghausen on October 17, 1810. Today, it just might be the world's most renowned beer festival -- particularly when one considers the brew made for the occasion has emerged into a distinctive and industry-accepted style. >More Dobra Tea and Fu Gu move onto State and Gilman
Comings and goings in the Madison restaurant world

Dobra Tea, 449 State St., is downtown's first spot devoted specifically to tea. It's a quiet oasis and borrows its atmosphere and decor from the regions of the world where tea is grown and relished -- India, China, Japan, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Turkey. You won’t find many traces of the Real Chili outlet that previously occupied the space -- Dobra is a real getaway from the West. There is another Dobra Tea located in Burlington, Vermont; the State Street branch opened in August. >More Schlitz beer returns to Madison

The beer that made Milwaukee famous is returning around Wisconsin for another shot at glory. The original version of Schlitz beer hasn't been around since the 1960s, but the once familiar maroon and gold six-pack carton of brown bottles will soon be back in Madison, complete with that slogan and the exhortation to "Go For the Gusto." >More
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FOOD AND DRINK

Gotham Bagels: Holy cream cheese, Batman!

We were heading to Mount Horeb for lunch when one of those oddly apocalyptic summer storms whipped up, the kind that seems to have become, suddenly, freakishly routine. The radio was making noises about running for cover, and we decided maybe it wasn't worth the broken bones and twisted neck, and that long, tempting tunnel of light, even for a really good lunch. So we turned back to Madison, and that's how we ended up, drenched, at Gotham Bagels for lunch instead. >More Welcoming the gastropub
The concept is taking hold here -- maybe

Those who dine on the isthmus and in parts adjacent have become aware of certain trends at neighborhood restaurants. Some might notice an upgrade in beer offerings. Others might recognize a more sophisticated -- but not pretentious -- feel to the menu or the atmosphere. >More

BEER

New Glarus Brewing: The brewhaus the Careys built
With a new facility, New Glarus looks to the future

When we're enjoying a cold pint of beer, we may not think much about the next one. But lately Deb and Dan Carey, owners of the New Glarus Brewing Company, have indeed been contemplating the beer coming down the line. >More

FRINGE FOODS

Fringe Foods: A Summer Olympics meal at Hong Kong Wok
Celebrating the Beijing Games with traditional Chinese fare -- chicken feet, congee, and century egg

It's fair to say that the Beijing Olympics are the water cooler topic of the week. Even cynics can't help themselves. Go ahead. Hum the anthem. Anyone with a TV knows either the "Olympic Fanfare and Theme" by John Williams or "Bugler's Dream" by Leo Arnaud. So hum away, because it's been in my head now since the Games started on August 8. >More Fringe Foods: The Madison Mallards version of the Luther Burger
Go whole doughnut with the Glazer Bacon Cheeseburger at the Duck Pond

Men of prodigious appetites often become known for their favorite foodstuffs. Elvis Presley had his fried peanut butter and banana sandwiches. John Madden enjoys a good turducken when the season is right. "Joliet" Jake Blues famously ordered "four fried chickens and a Coke." And now, Luther Vandross has, as part of his legacy, the Luther Burger. >More
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